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Your guide in visiting Côte d’Azur The French Riviera, France
How to get to the French Riviera?
What to do and see in the French Riviera?
The French Riviera, or the Côte d’Azur as the French calls it, is what many think of as the playground for the rich and famous. It is easy to understand why as the weather and the turquoise sea of the Mediterranean soaked against the beautiful coast line of Southern France.
I was fortunate enough to visit the French Riviera in September of 2013.
Time: September seems to be a perfect time to visit as it has just past the summer peak yet the weather is still perfect.
HOW TO GET TO THE FRENCH RIVIERA
Most people will visit the Riviera by air and fly into Aéroport Nice Côte d’Azur. Remember to get a window seat as the approach into Nice Airport is amazing. You can see the lovely coast, the clear turquoise water and the mega yachts.
Renting a Car
Most people will rent a car while visiting the Riviera and there is a big rental center at the Airport. Be prepared to wait in line for an hour or more if you are there during the peak season. There will be A LOT of people.
TIP: Buy full insurance to limit your liability. The roads in the Riviera are narrow and the locals drive FAST. Also, looking for a parking space is like trying to win the lottery. While you may be the safest driver in the world, you never know who will bump into your rear, your door etc. And if they “hit and run”, you will still have to pay the deductible which can be quite a lot depending on how much insurance you buy.
WHAT TO SEE & DO IN THE FRENCH RIVIERA
Nice
It is hard to skip Nice when you are flying into Nice but if I can choose again, I might skip the city of Nice altogether. The famous Promenade des Anglais is the famous street/seaside boardwalk but as with any boardwalk in a touristy town, the atmosphere gets a bit tacky. That said, many will enjoy the view down from the Castle Hill looking down to the city of Nice and the Promeande des Anglais.
Nice isn’t really for me because I find it too touristy and just clogged with people and cars during the peak season. The beach lining Promenade des Anglais is of pebbles other than sand which I am not a big fan of.
Stay Nice:
If your travel means you need to spend some time in Nice, I will recommend staying in a B&B and not the hotels lining the beach front; unless you really need a balcony overlooking the noisy street below.
I’ve stayed at the B&B Villa Kilauea. It is run by a lovely couple and they stay in this beautiful property. I cannot recommend it enough given you understand the location. It is not located in proper Nice but about a 15-minute drive from Nice; therefore, you need to have a car to stay here. The road from Nice (Promeande des Anglais) to the Villa Kilauea is not a 5-lane highway but a small country side road up a hill which can get a bit tight in places. However, you will be awarded with the tranquility of staying in the property. Take a look at my TripAdvisor review of Villa Kilauea here.
Restaurant Recommendations: Le Bistro Gourmand $$, Laromate $$
Antibes
Antibes is a town on the coast of the Riviera which is only a short 30-minute drive from Nice. Antibes is a famous town with an ancient village/town on top of a small hill. There, you can also find Museum Picasso. The famous artist spent a few months in town and thus a museum of his name is housed in this old Chateau. Fabulous view of the Mediterranean from the coast lining Antibes.
Cap d’Antibes is a lovely cape pointing out in the Mediterranean. One of the must do is the walk around Cap d’Antibes (The name of the trail is called Le Sentier du Littoral). There is a lovely and mostly paved trail that runs along the coast (some steps up and down along the trail). There is no access to beaches from this trail but it gives you an experience of what the rugged coast line of the Riviera is about. You might also have a glimpse of the Mansions built along the Cap. Mesmerizing view of the whole of the Riviera and which I believe is worth a few hours in your morning to explore. This website has a good overview of the trail itself.
Juan-les-Pins
Juan-les-Pins is a small town within the vicinity of Antibes. I suppose it is more famous for its night life in the area as it is bustling at night. It may or may not be your thing. I chose to stay here for a night as I found a hotel, Hotel Mademoiselle, that is relatively new and has a good deal at the time. It is very difficult to find a parking space if you are staying in town for the night. Take a look at my TripAdvisor review of Hotel Mademoiselle here.
Chez Bruno
We took a detour from the coastline of the Riviera because we wanted to visit a restaurant called Chez Bruno. It is about an hour drive inland from Cannes. What makes this drive worthwhile is the truffle-filled menu, a specialty of Chez Bruno. Depending on the season, the menu might include white truffles as well. Every dish (from amuse bouche to dessert) is with black truffles. It is like an explosion of truffle flavors in your palette. If you are a fan of truffles, this is not to be missed.
St. Tropez
St Tropez is of course another famous town lining the Riviera. I actually did not visit the town because of the traffic that leads up to the town. It was unbearable for me. I was there in September (which was past the peak season) but the traffic was still very bad. I cannot believe what it will be like during the summer. I do not really understand the hype of the place other than seeing mega yachts lining its harbour.
Pampelonne Beach
Where I did go is Pampelonne Beach which lines the coast south of St. Tropez. I believe the Beach itself is 3 miles long and lined with different beach clubs. There are sections of the beach which is opened to public. There is a huge parking lot that lines the beach. Other than having a beach chair, drinks and food served in some of the beach clubs, I am not sure what is the reason to pay for one. The beach itself is public meaning you can walk from one end to another. I especially enjoy the mega yachts parked outside the beach. I would not particularly come here again if I have the chance.
Cassis & the Calanques
This is probably the highlight of my Cote D’Azur trip. It is probably not considered to be in the heart of the Cote D’Azur being closer to Marseille than Nice. The drive from Nice to Cassis is close to 2.5 hours. What brings me to Cassis is the Calanques, beautiful fjords (limestone cliffs and inlets) which can be kayaked to-from Cassis. The kayak trip is not for the faint-hearted and can take close to 30 to 45 mins 1 way in rough seas. What awaits you is a jaw-dropping rocky beach with the Calanques right in front of/around you. It is so beautiful that I’ve spent an afternoon here like most people do. The place where you rent your kayak will give you a water sealed box to keep your valuables and your sandwich which you’ve bought from town nice and dry. Yes, picnic on the beach and enjoy the view. There are also tour boats from Cassis that tour the Calanques but you cannot get off the boat which really defeats the purpose of enjoying the time there. You can also hike down from the top of the cliff but to my understanding the trail is closed quite often and also quite treacherous of a hike down and back up. Don’t forget to bring a plastic bag and pack your garbage away with you when you leave.
The town of Cassis is lovely as well. It is not as crowded as other town near Nice and lovely small restaurants lining the small fishing harbour.
Restaurant Recommendations: Restaurant La Villamadie Cassis $$$. The fine dining in Cassis. Suggest you come here during daylight to experience the great view of the Mediterranean and Cap Canaille, the red towering red cliffs overlooking Cassis.
Stay Cassis
I’ve stayed at the lovely L’avila Cassis B&B. I can stay here for weeks. It is up on top of a hill. Get a room facing the sea and you will get a beautiful view of the surroundings and even the inlets of the Calanques very far away. Take a look at my TripAdvisor review of L’avila Cassis here.
Cap Canaille/La Ciotat
La Ciotat is a small town about 45 minutes drive from Cassis. I believe it is mainly a maintenance port for mega yachts and a fishing port. The town itself is not very interesting but one usually pass by the town going to and from Cap Canaille. Cap Canaille is in fact the highest sea cliff in France. It is between La Ciotat and Cassis. You can drive all the way up the cliff for a magnificent view of the Mediterranean, Cassis and the Calanques. This is one of the best views I’ve had in the week I’ve spent in the Riviera.
Èze
The Riviera has a number of medieval hill-top villages that is relatively well-preserved. Èze is one of the oldest and maybe the more popular one on the Riviera. It is worth wandering inside the village with its narrow, winding lanes. It has a great view of the Mediterranean.
Chateau de la Chevre d’Or is a good place to have lunch or a drink with great views of the Mediterranean. If you have a chance, I am sure it’s not a bad hotel to stay at being a part of the Relais & Châteaux. The restaurant holds two Michelin stars.
Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefrache-sur-Mer is a town/commune East of Nice, between Nice and Monaco. It is one of my favorite communes on the Riviera. There are many restaurants lined by the harbour and great sea-side walk as well.
Restaurant recommendations: La Mere Germaine – The Soup de Poisson (Fish Soup) is scrumptious. The service is relatively good being in the Riviera.
Cap D’ali Mala Beach
This is probably the best beach I’ve been to at the Rivera. It is a bit difficult to get to as it is not located next to a main road packed with traffic (which is good thing). You can park your car on the main road where there is a small parking lot (near the tourism office) or drive down the smaller lanes and park along the side of the road if you can find a spot. I took the path down to the beach at the end of Allee Mala (a small lane below the main road). The walk is only 10 minutes from the top of the path down to the beach. It is not difficult and it’s paved. The walk up might be a bit long given you might need to walk up and back to the car. There are 2 restaurants by the beach. I’ve lunched at the L’Eden which is fine for a beach restaurant. I think the photos says it all.
Monte Carlo, Monaco
Monaco. What can I say. Super super cars, the Casino and the Harbor with super mega yachts. Have a cup of coffee at the Cafe De Paris overlooking the Casino square to soak up the atmosphere. If you can book a table, maybe try the three Michelin star Restaurant Le Louis XV at Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris.
However, Monaco is not really the place for me. It is maybe a been there done that thing and I won’t think about staying here for any longer than an afternoon.
Menton
From Monaco, I continued driving towards Italy and stopped at the town of Menton. It is a town famous for its lemons. I’ve only spent an hour strolling around so I do not have much to recommend here. However, it is a charming town with a lovely harbor like many in the Riviera.
What I’ve missed:
There are actually quite a lot of things to do at the French Riviera. I did quite a lot of research prior to the trip, so I know relatively well what I am getting into. It did not disappoint me one bit. I did not visit Cannes because I think it will be similar to Nice and as touristy. I would have liked to explore Saint Jean Cap Ferrat and Antibes more if I had a bit more time. As mentioned, I did not visit the town of St. Tropez but maybe there is something for you.
Gorges du Verdon is definitely on my to go list next time when I am back in the area. It is nicknamed the “Grand Canyon South of France”. It is a relatively short drive from Nice. The canyon looks gorgeous from photos and you can kayak in the river/lakes below.
There are basically three roads linking Nice and Monaco which are by far the busiest part of the French Riviera. The roads are called “Les Trois Corniches“. These three roads are basically on three levels, the upper (Grande Corniche) , middle (Moyenne Corniche) and lower road (Corniche Inférieure) between these two towns. Most people will drive on the Corniche Inférieure which is often heavily congested but will connect to most of the small towns that you may want to visit. I drove parts of the Moyenne and mostly the Corniche Inférieure but if I visit the Riviera again I will drive the other two roads completely because they have a better view of the Mediterranean.
