Your guide skiing Ischgl in the Austrian Alps
How to get to Ischgl?
Where to stay in Ischgl?
What to do in Ischgl?
Where to eat in Ischgl?
Après-ski in Ischgl?
I first knew about Ischgl, at the Paznaun Valley in the Austrian state of Tyrol, not because of its skiing but its après-ski. Women dressed in traditional Austrian attire dancing on bar tables and benches. There is also a Pacha nightclub which makes Ischgl the winter of Ibiza. Was I so wrong! Yes, Ischgl has great après-ski but also a mountain to match. The skiing is one of the best I’ve had in the Alps and coupled with its state of the art chairlift system, I will come back again in a heartbeat.
Getting To
Located in the state of Tyrol not far away from the fame St. Anton, Ischgl is relatively easy to get to with a good train network that gets you to the closest station Landeck. From Landeck, it takes around 30 minutes by bus to reach the village of Tyrol. There are also many taxis available at the station. I’ve arranged private transport ahead of time to the village which is also a good option if you have a big party. There is a list of transport options in Ischgl official website.
I’ve used a company called “Taxi Taxi”. It is 70 EUROS one way from Landeck Station to Ischgl. It is a minivan that can easily accommodate 4 people with bags and skis. Is a good deal if you are traveling in a group with lots of skis and equipment. It is door to door from station to hotel.
The closest airport that has international flights during the winter peak season is Innsbruck. I’ve flown into Zurich which is the closest major international airport. From Zurich Airport, you will need to take a short 15 minutes train ride to Zurich Main Station. During the winter peak season, there are direct trains that run from Zurich Main Station to Landeck Station. It takes around three and a half hours. It is direct so you do not need to change trains along the way; however, it can get very crowded as it stops at St. Anton before Landeck. The Swiss Railways website is great and you can buy your tickets online.
Where to Stay
The village of Ischgl is relatively small. There is only one main road that runs across the village. Most of the restaurants and hotels are along this road. However, most of the complaints about Ischgl is its access by ski to the village. There is only a very narrow piste that leads to the village. I suspect the majority of the skier will choose to ride the gondola back down. There is also 1 Gondola, the Silvrettabahn A1, that connects this part of the village up to the mountain. It will get busy during peak season.
There is another side of the village which is linked by a tunnel with an automated walkway. This side has 2 newer hotels, the Hotel Elizabeth and Hotel Fliana. It is served by 2 different gondolas; the A2 and A3 gondolas. There is a much wider piste from the mountain back down to the newer Pardatschgratbahn A2 gondola which was built in 2014. The gondola station is right in front of Hotel Elizabeth and Fliana. I’ve stayed on this side of the village and I would definitely stay here again in my next visit. These 2 hotels are practically a ski-in and ski-out hotel. The Fimbabahn-A3 gondola is right beside Hotel Fliana.
I’ve stayed at the Hotel Fliana which is in front of the piste and chairlift. I highly recommend staying here. The other option is the Hotel Elizabeth beside it. They are both relatively new hotels with modern design. Hotel Elizabeth is above the Schatzi Bar with a lively après-ski scene every day in the winter months.
What to Do
Skiing of course! Yes, and après-ski at one of the bars in the village if you still have the energy.
Snow Magazine and On The Snow websites both have great reviews of skiing at Ischgl.
Ischgl probably has one of the most modern ski lift systems in the world. They continue to invest in new equipment which is absolutely fantastic. In the 2017/18 season, the 6-seater D1 Palinkopfbahn chairlift was just opened. It is like the Ferrari of chair lifts. It is comfortable with ergonomic heated seats. It very quiet and doesn’t vibrate much at all. It takes you from Schwarzwand Restaurant up to Palinkopf with an altitude gain of 440m at 2,853 meters. The view up there is absolutely fantastic. I also found my most favorite piste from there; the Black Piste #20 which takes you back down to the base of the chairlift. What a run!
I would highly recommend skiing down to the Swiss resort Samnaun. You need to remember to get a ski-pass that covers skiing down to Samnaun as well. It is pretty cool skiing from Austria to Switzerland.
Samnaun is also famous for its duty-free shopping and the only duty-free zone in Switzerland. Piste #80 takes you from the top of Palinkopf all the way down to Samnaun. The whole run is 10KM and the view is one of the best I’ve seen on a piste in the Alps. The view of some of the valleys down the run is mesmerizing. These kinds of view of the mountains are why you want to ski in the Alps. The piste down at the bottom of Samnaun is a bit flat but is well worth it. Once you get to the flat part, you do not need to go all the way into town for some duty-free shopping or Swiss food. There is a restaurant and duty-free shop before you reach the 2 story building tramway that takes you back to the top of Alp Trida Sattel at Ischgl. The restaurant is called Schmuggleralm – Bar & Restaurant. You cannot miss it if you follow Piste #80 all the way down to Samnaun. It is right beside the Piste where you can just take off your skis and walk in. I think most skiers will make a stop here. There is outdoor seating and the dutyfree shops are in the basement!
Remember to also visit the Ischgl Cable car Museum. It also shows the history of Ischgl.
Where to Eat
Paznaunerstube Restaurant at Hotel Trofana Royal – One of the best restaurant I’ve had in the Alps. Great tradiotnal food with innovative twists and with a massive wine list. If you only want to have 1 night of gourmet fine dining experience in Ischgl, this is the restaurant to go to. Don’t go in your ski attire. Dress up or else you will look out-of-place!
Stüva Restaurant in Hotel YSCLA – Great food. Great service.
Stiar – I wanted to visit this restaurant and I definitely will in my next visit.
La Candela – Great place for pizza and Austrian comfort food.
Schmuggleralm – Bar & Restaurant – Must go if you are skiing down to Samnaun. Have a fondou and then do a bit of duty-free shopping in the basement!
Après-ski
Champagner hutte – Champagne bar and club.
Winkler cafe-pub – Toned down après-ski
Rocks Grill Ischl – Fast food. Late night Kebabs or burger to go.
Kuhstall – Après-ski
Schatzi Bar – Après-ski
Niki’s Stadl – Après-ski
Hotel Fliana Free Ride Bar – Après-ski bar at Hotel Fliana
Pacha – The clubbing institution outpost in the Alps. If you are into clubbing then this is a must but go after midnight or near 1 am in the morning. The people tend to go quite late at night. Pretty sure they are not skiing first thing in the morning. I was there at midnight on a Thursday and it was empty.