Champagne, France

Looking towards Épernay from Champillon near Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa.
Moët & Chandon champagne house tour and tasting.

Your guide to Champagne region in France

How to get to Champagne?
Where to stay in Champagne?
What to do in Champagne?
Where to eat and drink in Champagne?

Yes, champagne, the lovely bubbly that we drink during New Year’s eve or any celebratory moment although, champagne is just like any other wine that could be drunk anytime of the day of the year. In my winesnobbery blog, I try to explain what makes champagne special and why it might be the best French wine region ever.

But this blog is about the region of Champagne, where champagne is made. Winston Churchill famously said, “Remember, gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!”

Of course, if you are not into wine or even champagne, the region of Champagne in France might not be the first thing you think of when visiting France. But it’s only a mere 2 hours drive or an hour TGV train ride from Paris and it will bring you to the heart of champagne region. The ancient town of Reims with it’s UNESCO listed Reims Cathedral is a sight to behold where the coronations of the kings of France were held.

The famous champagne chalk cellars in champagne which is carved underground runs for hundreds of kilometres is a sight to behold.

If you know nothing about champagne the wine, just remember that only champagne made in the Champagne region in France can be called champagne. A sparkling wine even made in the same way as champagne cannot be called champagne. For example, the sparking wine, Cava, is mostly produced in Spain, Catalonia which uses the same methods as making champagne but it cannot be called a champagne.

The Champagne region in France is steeped in history. It is one of the most historical wine making regions in France where monks makes wine for their service and meals but accidently created sparkling wines with dormant yeasts in the bottle during winter suddenly came alive in spring and created a second fermentation with bottles exploding because of gases, CO2, building inside the bottles from the accidental second fermentation.

They actually wanted to get rid off these unwanted gas in the wine as they didn’t know better as to what’s happening and when bottles are exploding around them. The monks made still wine and wanted still wine. It was not until the British that used coal to make stronger glass that could within the pressure of the bottle and finally could make sparkling wine in the bottle. We will leave it to the British and the French to figure out who made the first sparkling wine, intentionally.

Of course, the champagne method of making champagne is not just about the glass. The limestone and chalk terroir and climate grows the Chardonnay grapes with great vibrancy and acidity that is perfect for champagne. Chardonnay being one of the main 3 grape varietal grown in champagne together with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. In fact, champagne laws allow 7 grape varietals to be grown and used to make champagne.

Even if you are not a wine of champagne drinker, champagne’s rolling hills and vines captures the essence of a beautiful wine making region in France.

Geographically speaking, the champagne growing region is within the Grand Est administrative region of north-eastern France. And mainly within the department of Marne and Aube. Historically and still today, the cities of Troyes, Reims, and Épernay are the commercial centres of the region.

Champagne wine region map with it’s main villages and specific champagne regions within champagne. To give you a sense of distance, Reims to Épernay is around a 40mins drive. And Épernay to Troyes is around 1hr15mins.

Getting To

Reims Station

Champagne is 2 hours away from Paris by car or an hour by TGV. If you are serious in visiting champagne, then a car is a must. You can visit all the different charming villages in the region and many of the champagne producers have wine tasting tours which you could make a reservation in advanced.

As a wine and champagne lover, I’ve been to the Champagne region a couple of times. A few times by train to Reims where I join a half day tour of the champagne houses like Moët & Chandon. However, this is only give you a tiny glimpse of what Champagne region is truly about.

The perfect way to visit champagne is to rent a car from Paris and drive to Champagne and stay over night and enjoy all the charming villages and vineyards and visit not only the major champagne houses but the smaller grower champagne producers that produces amazing wine in the region.

Where to Stay

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

Reims is the largest city and the capital of the Champagne region and it’s a great place to stay and explore the region.

However, if you have a car, there is no reason to just stay in Riems. There are some charming hotels around the region and the two below is highly recommended which I’ve also stayed in.

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa is one of the newer hotels in the region. It is a pretty big complex with a great spa and restaurant. It is located at the village of Champillon which is around 30mins from Reims. Yes, it is not a cheap hotel but it is well worth it if you want to spend a day or two here. The Champillon vineyards are right in front of the hotel and you can rent a bike for free from the hotel and cycle around the vineyards and even have picnic and a glass/bottle of champagne. The rooms are extremely modern with a large pool facility with an outdoor infinity pool looking towards the vineyards.

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

If you are a true champagne lover, then you will of course heard of or even drank a bottle of two of Jacques Selosse. They actually have a boutique hotel right at their winery! Hotel and Restaurant Les Avisés is so lovely that I do not want to leave. The rooms are modern and stylish and environmental friendly. It is located at the famous Grand Cru village of Avize at the Côte des Blancs famed for their Chardonnays. The hotel is beside the winery so if you ask nicely they will give you a tour as well. The restaurant is a must because it carries most of Jacques Selosse cuvée.

Hotel and Restaurant Les Avisés by Domaine Jacques Selosse

Hotel and Restaurant Les Avisés is a must for wine and champagne lovers visiting the Champagne region.

Hotel and Restaurant Les Avisés by Domaine Jacques Selosse
Hotel and Restaurant Les Avisés by Domaine Jacques Selosse

What to Do

Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Reims

Reims is a must when you visit the region as it is the largest city in the region and historical significant city where most of the Kings of France were crowned.

Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Reims
Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Reims

Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Reims is a majestic and beautiful Cathedral at the centre of Reims. It is where many Kings of France were crowned.

Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Reims
Ruinart champagne house tour and tasting.
Veuve Clicquot Champagne House

Although Champagne is not only about the major champagne houses, you can never say you’ve visited champagne if you’ve not done of tour and tasting at the champagne houses. It is not only the champagne but the miles of chalk tunnels carved out underneath the village of Épernay where most of the major champagne houses are located. The Avenue de Champagne are lined with the champagne houses and underneath them are these amazing chalk cellars where the champagne of fermenting and aging. Épernay is around 45 mins from Reims and is a must when you visit Champagne.

The underground chalk cellars or “Crayères” of the champgane house Ruinart.
Champagne riddling racks. Historically, the champagne on these racks are “riddled” turned daily to consolidate the sediments near the cork or in the neck of the bottle. This could take 8 to 10 weeks. Today, there are machines that could take over this tasks but some champagne houses still use this method for their prestigeous champagnes.
Steel fermentation tanks.
Traditional grape pressers.

Almost all of the major champagne houses have their own tours and tasting which can be booked online. The major ones are of course Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot and Ruinart.

AR Lenoble champagne house tour and tasting.

Then of course the gem of champagne is arranging a visit to the smaller growers and champagne houses. They are not the Moet or Veuve’s where even if you are not a wine or champagne drinker, you would most likely heard of. Although, they are also a must visit because of their amazing historical chalk cellars but if you want to learn more about the making of champagne, you have to visit the smaller houses. These smaller houses allow you to see more of the wineries and share a real wine lover tour of their facilities compared to the more touristic tour of Moet of Veuve.

AR Lenoble chalk cellars

AR Lenoble is one of those relatively smaller family owned champagne houses that would give you an understanding of so much more about champagne making during a tour. Usually if you go to their website and send them an email asking them for a tour, they would try to arrange one for you with or without a costs for some wine tasting as well. I highly recommend seeking one of the family run champagne houses or growers and asking for a tour of their facilities. It will expand your champagne knowledge so much more.

Dom Pérignon monument outside of Moët & Chandon visitor center.

Even if you are a wine or champagne drinker, you must have heard of Dom Pérignon. The “prestigious” champagne now part of Moët & Chandon. In fact, the monk, Dom Pierre Pérignon, made his wine here at Abbaye d’Hautvillers and his tomb also lies here near the Abbaye. The misconception was that he was the one who discovered or made champagne but in fact that is not true. Nonetheless, he is a pioneer in wine making at that time and is a integral part of the history of champagne.

Abbaye d’Hautvillers

Troyes

Troyes is a historical city well worth of visit with half-timbered houses around the old town area. I only spent a very short time here travelling through to Bourgogne but if you have time. Although, it is almost 1.5 hours away drive from Épernay. If you are not on your way travelling through the south then it might not be worth the time just to visit Troyes alone.

Where to Eat

There are numerous restaurants around the area especially in Épernay and Reims. I did not visit all of the list below but it is on my list of restaurants that I would go to if I visit champagne again in the future.

Hotel and Restaurant Les Avisés – I’ve stayed at the hotel and dine at the restaurant. Must visit for the Jacques Selosse wine alone.

Brasserie Le Jardin

Le Relais de Sillery

Le Coquet

Le Bateau Lavoir – Unfortunately, it was closed when I’ve visited but it’s a perfect place for lunch I think at the tranquil village of Damery and beside the Marne River. This is what champagne is all about.

Village of Damery

Rôtisserie Henri IV

Chez Max – I did dine here. Lovely evening and homely meal at Épernay. Perfect.

Aux Crieurs de Vin

Noteworthy Mention in Épernay

520 – Champagne and wine Authors – There are many wine shops in the region as you may have imagined, but when I walked into 520, I walked into heaven. Very modern shop at Épernay with clear signages and all the champagne you could have wished for. Well priced, well stocked. Must visit to grab a few bottles to drink in your hotel room or picnic during your trip.

520 – Champagne and wine Authors at Épernay

Le P’tit Champenois Restaurant – Wine shop and restaurant, interesting underground cellar.

La Fine Bulle – Very nice champagne wine shop.


Thank you for reading. Hope the information will be helpful in planning your trip to Ischgl. Please comment and let me know your experiences at Ischgl or drop me a message via any of my social media channels.   Also, please subscribe so I can keep you up to date on my travels and any new travel destination information.  

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